Lost in Tehran

Karim Khani Nook, Golestan Palace

The day began with one of the hosts, Jalal apologizing for Nadir Shah’s invasion of India in the 18th century. I forgave him on behalf of the Mughals saying he was only 200+ years late, which was accepted with a rather noisy laughter

Breakfast was basic, bread, cheese, jam and chai (unlimited and free). I took a map of the metro and bus line from Reza and charted my course setting off first to get a sim card. About 10 mins away was an Irancell store where i parked myself to get a sim. The ladies there spoke no English and I somehow managed to tell them i need a sim card. They took my passport and after some paperwork, handed me a receipt for 450K (almost INR 950)! I was clearly not going to pay that much for a sim…it was more than the monthly bills i got back home. I was trying to ask them what the price included but in vain – a good samaritan stepped in just then offering to help. i explained to him the fiasco and some Farsi ping-pong he tells me that the sim is expensive because it is a special number or Rond number as they call it. Why the hell would i need a special number, i am traveling for 2 weeks! He went on to tell me that i could get a normal sim for a third of the price. Well then i refused to pay around which the ladies fussed a bit saying that my sim card had been registered and that it couldnt be cancelled. it took some explaining by the gentleman that i am a traveller and that the amount was too large to pay to have the ladies give in finally. End of story, i left without a sim card.
contemporary art museum